Every winter in the Finnish coastal city of Kemi, an act of seasonal architecture takes place. Beginning in January, teams of builders and artists construct the SnowCastle of Kemi from the ground up, using snow harvested from the surrounding Gulf of Bothnia. The castle is never the same from one year to the next; its designers create a fresh architectural vision each season, testing the structural and artistic possibilities of the medium, and the result is consistently one of the most singular temporary buildings in the world.
The scale alone is striking. The castle’s walls, towers, and interior halls occupy an area equivalent to several city blocks, and at their peak they rise to 13 or 14 metres, a genuinely imposing height for a building made entirely of compressed snow and reinforced with ice. The interior spaces vary by design: some years produce grand vaulted halls hung with ice chandeliers; others create labyrinthine corridors of carved snow that lead to intimate chapel spaces or open theatrical plazas. The art installations that inhabit the castle each season, ice sculptures commissioned from artists across Finland and beyond, are consistently of high quality, making the SnowCastle as much an arts venue as a tourist attraction.
The hotel rooms within the castle are an experience of considerable intensity. Snow walls at -5°C surround beds built on ice platforms, covered with reindeer hides and high-specification thermal sleeping bags. The silence in a snow room is total, snow absorbs sound almost completely, and the quality of light filtering through the white walls at night, when the castle’s exterior lighting creates a soft internal glow, is unlike anything achievable in conventional architecture. The Snow Restaurant, serving Finnish cuisine prepared in a kitchen adjacent to the castle, is one of the more unusual dining experiences in the country.
Kemi’s location on the Gulf of Bothnia provides the SnowCastle with a substantial additional experience. The Sampo, Finland’s last operating tourist icebreaker, departs from the city’s harbour for cruises through the pack ice of the Gulf: guests don survival suits and float in the frozen sea, drink coffee on the icebreaker’s heated bridge, and observe the mechanical process of an icebreaker at work, pushing through ice sheets two metres thick with a grinding roar that is as elemental as anything winter Finland offers. The combination of the castle and the icebreaker makes Kemi one of the most practically complete winter destinations in northern Europe, two experiences of real substance rather than one novelty padded with filler activities.
