andBeyond Benguerra Island

The Bazaruto Archipelago is Mozambique’s most significant marine conservation zone: a chain of five islands off the central coast where the shallow coastal waters of the Mozambique Channel have been protected since 1971 as one of Africa’s oldest marine parks. The result is a functioning marine ecosystem that is rare along the East African coast — abundant fish populations, healthy coral at accessible snorkelling depth, and the largest remaining population of dugong in the Western Indian Ocean. These are shy, slow-moving animals rarely encountered elsewhere; in Bazaruto’s shallow seagrass beds, sightings are regular enough to be planned around.

Benguerra Island is the second largest of the archipelago’s islands: a low, forested landmass of dune ecosystems and freshwater lakes behind a 17-kilometre Indian Ocean beach. The andBeyond lodge sits in a grove of indigenous trees facing the western lagoon — quieter and calmer than the ocean side, with the water’s characteristic luminous turquoise against white sand. Accommodation is in casitas of stone and thatch, each with a private plunge pool and direct beach access; the design is simple, functional, and ensures no attention is wasted on the room when it belongs outside.

The lodge’s PADI dive centre organises reef dives from the house boat to sites within the protected zone; snorkelling from the beach itself accesses shallow coral gardens in water so clear that the fish are visible from 20 metres away. Dhow sailing — the traditional wooden sailing vessels of the Mozambique coast — is available at sunset, which at this latitude tends toward extraordinary pinks and oranges over the flat water. Humpback whale sightings are consistent from July to October when the southern population migrates through the Mozambique Channel.

Access is via Vilanculos on the mainland, reached by domestic flight from Maputo (45 minutes) or from Johannesburg (direct). Benguerra is then 20 minutes by light aircraft or 45 minutes by speedboat from Vilanculos.